Black Tusk: A Volcanic Marvel With Captivating History Offers Epic Hiking Experience

The most photogenic volcano of British Columbia

Black Tusk is a stratovolcano and a pinnacle of volcanic rock, standing tall at 2,319 meters (7,609 feet) above sea level. Its distinctive, jagged silhouette is visible from a great distance in all directions, making it one of the most recognizable mountains in the Garibaldi Ranges of the Coast Mountains in Southwestern British Columbia. Black Tusk is located in Garibaldi Provincial Park, which lies between the towns of Squamish and Whistler.

Black Tusk’s iconic upper spire is visible from a great distance in all directions and is most noticeable at various points along the Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to Whistler.

Formation and History

While it stands as a silent sentinel today, its past eruptions have left an indelible mark on the landscape. Black Tusk has a captivating geological history. Let’s delve into its origins.

Here are the key points about the Black Tusk’s volcanic history:

1. Formation and Extinction:
   • The Black Tusk is the remnant of an extinct andesitic stratovolcano that formed between approximately 1.3 and 1.1 million years ago.
   • Glacial processes dissected the original volcano, leaving behind the distinctive core we see today.
   • Renewed volcanic activity later produced the lava dome and flow that now form the summit of the Black Tusk, approximately 170,000 years ago.
2. Subglacial Eruption Theory:
   • Recent studies suggest that the Black Tusk’s eruption was subglacial—meaning it occurred beneath a Pleistocene ice sheet.
   • Cooling patterns of the lava indicate that it was fully contained beneath the ice during the eruption.
3. Distinctive Features:
   • The exposed lava rock of the Black Tusk’s core is loose and friable, contributing to its black color and jagged appearance.
   • The mountain’s name derives from this dark volcanic rock.
4. Glaciers and Landscape:
   • The Black Tusk currently hosts two significant glaciers, nestled in cirques on its northeastern and northwestern flanks.
   • These glaciers flow from approximately 2,100 meters (6,890 feet) down to below 1,800 meters (5,906 feet).
   • To the east of Black Tusk lies another volcanic feature called Cinder Cone.
   • Cinder Cone produced a 9-kilometer (6-mile) long lava flow during the late Pleistocene or early Holocene.
   • Both Black Tusk and Cinder Cone are part of the Garibaldi Volcanic Belt, a segment of the Canadian Cascade Arc.
5. No Risk of Re-Eruption:
   • While there’s no risk of the Black Tusk erupting again, nearby dormant volcanoes like Mount Garibaldi in Squamish and Mount Baker in Washington still have the potential for future eruptions.

Indigenous Perspectives: The Legend of T’ákt’akmúten tl’a In’inyáxa7n (Landing Place of the Thunderbird)

In the ancient times, among the Squamish people, the Black Tusk was known as T’ákt’akmúten tl’a In’inyáxa7n, which translates to the “Landing Place of the Thunderbird.” This majestic peak held a supernatural significance—a testament to the powerful forces that shaped the land.

Let us journey back to those distant days:

Sk’ewk (Raven), a cunning and tempestuous bird, harbored resentment toward Wexés (Frog). Their feud brewed like a storm cloud, fueled by old grievances.

One fateful day, Sk’ewk seized Wexés and soared high into the sky. Wexés, desperate to return to solid ground, pleaded for release.

Sk’ewk, mischievous and vengeful, granted Wexés’ wish by dropping him from the heavens. As Wexés plummeted, he clung to the clouds, tearing a gaping hole in the sky.

Torrential rains poured forth, flooding the land below. The once serene valleys transformed into raging rivers, and the earth quaked under the weight of Wexés’ fall.Amid this chaos, In’inyáxa7n (Thunderbird) stirred. His eyes opened, and lightning crackled across the landscape. With mighty wings, he unleashed havoc and destruction.

Wexés, now submerged in rising floodwaters, narrowly avoided colliding with Yéw’yews (Killer Whale). Yéw’yews, sensing the cataclysm, thrashed his tail, sending tidal waves in all directions.

Most of the remaining people were swept away—their lives forever entwined with the unfolding drama of the Great Flood.

And so, the Black Tusk stands as a silent witness to this ancient tale—a reminder of cosmic battles, wrathful gods, and the enduring power of myth across cultures. The jagged shape and black color of the mountain are attributed to the Thunderbird’s lightning.

So, the Black Tusk’s fiery past has given way to its current icy demeanor—a silent witness to ancient volcanic forces and glacial transformations.

For those who venture to its summit, the Black Tusk remains a testament to the Earth’s dynamic history and the enduring beauty of our natural world.

Black Tusk Trail Development and Hiking Adventure History

First Ascent (1912):The inaugural ascent of the Black Tusk was accomplished by a party led by William J. Gray in 1912. This historic climb took place during the first summer camp organized by the British Columbia Mountaineering Club (BCMC), held in the picturesque Black Tusk Meadows. Gray blazed a trail from the juncture of Rubble Creek and the Cheakamus River to reach the meadows. The exact path of this trail remains uncertain—whether it followed The Barrier route or skirted the flank of the Black Tusk massif, where a later packhorse trail was established.

This period marked an exhilarating era for mountain exploration. In 1910, the BCMC collaborated with the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) to investigate the southern Garibaldi area. The 32-kilometer (20-mile) Pemberton Trail, well-trodden by the First Nations peoples of the region, connected Squamish to Pemberton. In 1911, adventurers Alex and Myrtle Phillip followed this route to their paradise at Alta Lake, a two-day journey that involved a Union Steamship ride from Vancouver to Squamish, followed by a trek to Daisy Lake, the trailhead for the Black Tusk area. 

Imagine the intrepid climbers navigating the rugged terrain, their eyes fixed on the distinctive silhouette of the Black Tusk. 

Meanwhile, in 1910, the Howe Sound & Northern Railway constructed a 9-mile track north of Squamish. Later, the Pacific Great Eastern Railway (later BC Rail), established in 1912, took over the HS&N and extended the rail line to Daisy Lake. This significant development greatly facilitated access to the Black Tusk area, and by 1915, the rail line reached Chasm on the Fraser River.

Since 1912, hikers and mountaineers have flocked to this heart of the Coast Mountains, so tantalizingly close to the metropolis of Vancouver. Geologists and botanists were drawn to its unique features. Among the early geologists, Dr. E. M. Burwash from the University of British Columbia (UBC) stands out. In approximately 1937, Bill Mathews (also known as Dr. W. H. Mathews) meticulously explored and studied the area. In brief, Black Tusk and its companion, Table Mountain, originated during the Miocene or Pliocene epochs as remnants of ancient volcanoes. Erosion has stripped them down to their core, leaving behind a few original lava flows and the rugged essence of their volcanic past.

The entire Garibaldi area caught the attention of the provincial government in 1920’s, and it was dedicated as Garibaldi Provincial Park in 1926.  A topographical study was completed in 1927, with their publication of a 4×8 foot blueprint map as guide for hikers & climbers – cost $1.

Hiking and mountaineering in the area became a favoured activity.  PGE rail line was located across the Cheakamus River from Daisy Lake; it was here around “Garibaldi” Station a small community developed. 

 The trip from Vancouver into the meadows still required two days.  Near the station, a lodge close to another small lake, Lucille Lake, was built to service arrivals from Vancouver.  1940’s, this lodge was called McDonald.  They had a telephone – it was indeed needed.  The train was often late thus causing travellers to miss the Union boat at Squamish.   

Logging industry was also active in the valley with logs moved to mills at Squamish.  With logging, men referred to as gypo loggers came to clear a cut-block of debris.  This was often followed with a controlled burn to encourage new growth.  To augment their income, they acquired pack horses to take people’s belongings up to the meadows.  They also set up portable tent camps.  George Wallis set up his h/q near Mimulus Creek, while Bert Lamb set up in the center of meadows beside the trail.

In the 1930’s, a small log cabin was constructed in lower meadows called L.D. Taylor Cabin for a mayor of Vancouver.  He believed there was sufficient water and head for hydro generation unit for the City of Vancouver.  Engineers working on this project built the cabin and worked from it.  The project was abandoned when it was found that The Barrier was unsafe.  The cabin remained and was used by groups, especially UBC VOC in winter & spring trips. Later ACC renovated it and is also used by park rangers.

Although L. D. Taylor’s initial concept didn’t succeed, in 1946, B.C. Hydro harnessed the potential of Daisy Lake and the northern part of the valley for a significant power development project. The creation of the Daisy Lake Reservoir marked a pivotal moment. Water from Daisy Lake flows through an 11-kilometer tunnel to the 157-megawatt Cheakamus Generating Station on the Squamish River. This development also led to the emergence of the first long-distance power lines in the region.

To facilitate this project, a tote road was constructed to connect Squamish. By 1950, there was a strong push to establish a connection between Squamish and Vancouver. The first step involved B.C. Rail taking over the PGE (Pacific Great Eastern Railway) to complete this ambitious undertaking. The road connection between Squamish and Daisy Lake was also improved.

Finally, in 1957, a highway connection between Vancouver and the area was achieved. Now, travelers could drive from Vancouver to the trailhead, embark on a hike to the meadows, and return on the same day. Hikers have indeed taken advantage of this convenient day trip option, exploring the scenic beauty of the region and its natural wonders.

Hiking to Black Tusk from Rubble Creek

These days is Black Tusk very popular hiking destination. While some hikers complete the trail in a day, the distance and elevation gain make for a very long day. As an alternative, some people prefer to hike to Garibaldi Lake or Taylor Meadows and camp overnight, then tackle Black Tusk the following day. If you choose to do it in a day, ensure you have plenty of time to return to the parking lot during daylight hours.

Here are some key points about this iconic peak:

• Difficulty: Difficult
• Round-Trip Distance: Approximately 29 kilometers (18 miles)
• Elevation Gain: 1,740 meters (5,709 feet)
• Season: Best from July to October
• Camping: Yes, there are campsites available.
• Dog Friendly: No

1. Location and Accessibility:
   • The trailhead begins at the Rubble Creek parking lot.
2. Hiking Experience:
   • The hike to Black Tusk is approximately 17.4 kilometers (10.8 miles) round-trip.
   • The elevation gain is a whopping 1,740 meters (5,709 feet).
   • The trail takes you through diverse landscapes, from lush forests to rocky alpine terrain.
3. Scenic Highlights:
   • The trail starts with a steady climb for the first 6 kilometers through the forest, eventually leading to the picturesque Taylor Meadows.
   • In late summer and early fall, the alpine flowers bloom, creating a colorful tapestry across the meadows.
   • The trail climbs quickly, passing over small runoff streams and evidence of rockslides. As you gain elevation, enjoy occasional views of Garibaldi Lake below.
   • As you ascend, enjoy breathtaking views of Garibaldi Lake below.
4. The Final Push:
   • Beyond Taylor Meadows, the trail becomes steeper and rockier.
   • The final section involves a scramble over loose shale toward the base of the Tusk.
   • BC Parks does not officially maintain a trail beyond this point, but evidence of previous hikers’ paths remains visible.
   • The last stretch is a steep uphill climb, leading to a ridge with a full view of Black Tusk ahead.
5. At Your Own Risk:
   • Passing the BC Parks sign, you’ll face loose shale that slides with each step.
   • The trail emerges onto a ridge next to the base of the Tusk, offering a scenic panorama of the surrounding area.
   • Beware of falling rocks – wear a helmet.

Hike Black Tusk from Cheakamus Lake via Helm Creek

This option is less popular. It is a bit longer. However, it offers beautiful scenery as well. 

1. Difficulty: Difficult
2. Round-Trip Distance: Approximately 33 kilometers (20.5 miles)
3. Elevation Gain: over 1400 meters 
4. Starting Point: Begin your journey on the Cheakamus Lake Trail. After a pleasant 1.5 kilometers, you’ll encounter a junction for Helm Creek. Take a right turn here, and soon you’ll cross the Cheakamus River on a sturdy bridge.
5. Defined Trail: From this point onward, the trail remains well-defined for the next 7 kilometers. Here are the key stages:
   • Cinder Flats and Helm Lake: As you hike through the incredible volcanic scenery of Cinder Flats, you’ll reach Helm Lake after approximately 4.5 kilometers from the campground. The views of Helm Lake and Whistler in the backdrop are awe-inspiring.
   • Meadows and Turnoff for Black Tusk: Next, you’ll traverse 5 kilometers through flower-filled meadows. This part of the trail is both gorgeous and relatively easy. Keep an eye out for the well-signposted turnoff for Black Tusk. Note that there’s a downhill section during this stretch.
6. Day Hike Option: For a day hike, start from the Cheakamus Lake trailhead. The total distance is 33 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 1750 meters. Expect a longer duration of 10.5-11.5 hours.
7. Campsite Options:
   • Helm Creek Campground: If you’re camping, Helm Creek Campground is your starting point. The entire return distance from Helm Creek to Black Tusk is approximately 17.7 kilometers. The elevation gain is 910 meters, and you’ll reach the base of the Tusk at 2200 meters. The summit stands at 2319 meters. Plan for 6-7 hours of hiking each way.
8. Trail Difficulty:
   • The hike is rated as hard, especially as a day hike due to its length.
   • Most of the walk is not technical, except for the final section on slide-y scree, which can be exhausting.
   • Climbing the volcanic ‘tusk’ at the very end is not recommended without appropriate equipment and training.

Plan Your Black Tusk Hike Ahead and Don’t Take Risks

While the Black Tusk hike in Garibaldi Provincial Park offers breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment, it’s essential to be aware of the challenges and potential risks. Here are some considerations regarding injuries:

1. Scramble and Loose Terrain: The final section of the trail involves a scramble over loose shale toward the base of Black Tusk. This terrain can be treacherous, especially during wet or icy conditions. Hikers should exercise caution and wear appropriate footwear with good traction.
2. Physical Demands: The hike is long (approximately 29 kilometers round-trip) and involves significant elevation gain (1,740 meters). Fatigue, dehydration, and overexertion can increase the risk of accidents or injuries.
3. Weather Conditions: Weather can change rapidly in the mountains. Sudden storms, fog, or snow can impact visibility and make navigation challenging. Hypothermia is a concern, especially if caught unprepared.
4. Altitude: As you ascend, the air becomes thinner, which can affect breathing and overall physical performance. Altitude sickness is a possibility, especially for those not acclimated to higher elevations.
5. Rockfall: The rocky terrain near the base of Black Tusk may have loose rocks or boulders. Be cautious to avoid dislodging rocks that could pose a danger to yourself or others.
6. Climbing the chimney is really dangerous. It’s only recommended for experienced rock climbers and mountaineers. If you slip, it could be very bad. And remember, going back down is even harder than going up! If you decide to try it, keep a safe distance from the person in front of you to avoid falling rocks.
7. Emergency Services: While there are emergency services available, response times can be longer in remote areas. Cell phone reception may be limited or nonexistent.

To minimize the risk of injuries:

• Be Prepared: Research the trail, check weather forecasts, and pack appropriate gear, including extra layers, food, water, and a first aid kit.
• Hike with Others: It’s safer to hike with a group or at least one other person. If an injury occurs, someone can provide assistance or seek help.
• Know Your Limits: Assess your fitness level and experience. If you’re unsure, consider shorter hikes before attempting Black Tusk.
• Follow Trail Markers: Pay attention to trail markers and signs. Going off-trail can lead to dangerous situations.

Remember that safety is paramount. If you encounter any injuries or emergencies during the hike, prioritize seeking help and following proper procedures. Enjoy the adventure, but always be cautious and well-prepared! 

Whether you’re an experienced hiker seeking adventure or simply an admirer of natural beauty, Black Tusk promises an unforgettable journey. So lace up your boots, embrace the rugged terrain, and let the majesty of this volcanic pinnacle leave an indelible mark on your soul.

In summary, Black Tusk stands as a testament to ancient volcanic forces, glacial sculpting, and the rich cultural narratives of the indigenous peoples who have long revered this majestic peak.